Purring like a kitten...

[nfpgasmask]

OK, just got back from my first lube job (not the truck's first, just the first from me as it's new owner).

I did a full engine flush and refilled with Mobile 1 Synth. I would say I noticed a difference right away. The previous owner said the oil was changed every 3000, so that is good. Anyway, I have been doing a lot of reading on this site about the switch to full synthetic.

Can I have some opinions on this? Is there anything I should know now that I am running synthetic? Also, I am wondering if my oil watching/changing habits should be modified now that I am running full synth. Still change every 3000?

I want to take extra good care of her.

Bart

PS - New gatorback serpentine belt and new tires go on next week or so.

[mbeach]

Mobil 1 every 5k miles here.

I do watch the air filter a little closer than most people though.
Also, rotate tires at 5k.

EDIT:
Oh, check oil at EVERY gas stop -just in case

[Joe_Black]

If this is the first time on synthetic you may want to do a short oil and filter change at 1500 or 2000 miles. Mobil-1 will "de-sludge" an engine and there will be a lot of junk circulating, so it's good to get it out.

[nfpgasmask]

Mbeach: when you say check the oil every time I fill up, you mean check the level to see if the engine is burning more?

Joe_Black: Good call, I will change it out again at 1500. Should I do another flush as well, or just a regular change? I'm not sure how often a flush should be performed, now that I am running synth...

Thanks! Bart

[johnnyapollo]

I do Mobile 1 every 5K miles - I also top up every 1000 miles (uses a little less than a quart per 1000 so about a quart per 5K). If you do decide to do 5K changes, try to line up your changes to hit right on the 5's and 10's - it's easier to keep up with the changes that way (plus you'll know ever time the 1000 rolls over that it's time to check the oil and top up).

Also, I buy the 6 pack of Mobile 1 at Costco. It gives you your change plus the quart for top-ups and ends up costing about the same as 5 quarts so you get the extra for free.

-- John

[mbeach]

Mbeach: when you say check the oil every time I fill up, you mean check the level to see if the engine is burning more?

We haven't really determined where that missing oil goes -it just dissappears
I check it every fill, or 300 miles. I'd say that the Ironman looses a half quart every 1000-1200 miles.
The Dragon lost nothing, ever, until one day it lost 1.5 quarts in 300 miles. Attributed to a fast leak in the valve cover gasket near the EGR tube.

[Joe_Black]

You shouldn't have to flush again, especially using Mobil-1 as its detergent properties are excellent. Be sure to keep a handful of PCV valves (about $4 each) on hand and change it every other oil change, as that will typically keep excessive oil consumption under control.

I know many are proponents of extended oil changes and the synthetics are certainly good for it, but remember that oil keeps dirt and contaminants in suspension to be removed at the filter. What the filter doesn't get stays in suspension and the filter has a limited capacity. So the further you push that the more likely your filter will be running in bypass mode and not filtering anymore, meaning the oil is just circulating crap and crud throughout your engine and it's tight-tolerance bearing surfaces. There aren't little magic elves cleaning things in there, it's all up to you. Pushing it further means higher concentrations of contaminants having their way in your motor. So if you do the math on the cost difference between 3000 mile changes and 5000 or higher you'll see it's a minor expense for such a huge gamble. On an average 15,000 mile year you're looking at an average cost difference of $74 (5 quarts Mobil-1 $25, Mobil-1 filter $10, 1 PCV valve $4) per year. Isn't your VX worth $70?

[nfpgasmask]

Awesome, thanks for this helpful info. Also, I have read a lot on here about the PCV valve change. Everyone says its easy, which is great, but I am not an expert. Basically, I don't even know what a PCV valve looks like, let alone what it does or where it is 0_o. I did a search, but maybe you can point me in the right direction to a quick breakdown of how to swap this part out. Sorry, I am noob/wannabe gearhead. I'm learning though, thanks to everyone on this board!

Bart

PS - I just put the VX in the garage, and literally 5 minutes later, hail from the size of peanuts to the size of walnuts just peppered the NW side of Chicago for about 10 minutes....whew, that was close.

[Joe_Black]

To change the PCV you basically want to be standing in front of your VX with the hood up. Take a look at the plastic cover on top of the engine. It's held on by four rubber grommets, roughly located at each corner, that seat onto metal studs that are in the intake. Grasp both sides of the cover with your hands about the middle of each side, then pull firmly but slowly straight up with a bit of a wiggling motion. Keep a sharp eye as sometimes the grommets can pop out of their holes and fall somewhere difficult to get at. Once you have the cover off it's a good idea to put any grommets stuck on a stud or popped off back in their respective holes, then set it aside.

Stand in front of your VX again and look at the top right side of the engine, just above the coils nearest you. You should see a hose with a finger-clamp retaining it on a plastic fitting the goes into a rubber grommeted hole in the head. Actually, it's best to already have the replacement PCV valve on hand, so you'll know exactly what you're looking for. While holding the PCV valve firmly with one hand, use the other to pinch the tabs of the finger-clamp together and work it a couple inches back up the hose. While still holding the PCV work the hose off the valve fitting. Once loose, then wiggle the PCV out of the grommet paying attention as the grommet can sometimes fall into the head if worn. If it's really loose and deteriorated just take it to your local auto parts shop and get a replacement, they're cheap and generic.

Reverse the above procedure to install the new valve. It's that easy!

[IndianaVX]

Hey guys,
just wanted to say that i too noticed a difference when i changed to mobil one fs. in the engine, cant wait for tranny, diffs etc.
Back to my point, I got the big jug (5qt0 of mobil 1, full synth. at wal mart for 21.00.
hey, every penny you save, is pennies you can spend somewhere else, or on something else

[nfpgasmask]

OK thanks very much for the break-down, now where can I get the PCV valves from? Are these standard parts I can get from AutoZone or Pep Boys? Is there a specific part number? Thanks again for you time.

Bart

To change the PCV you basically want to be standing in front of your VX with the hood up. Take a look at the plastic cover on top of the engine. It's held on by four rubber grommets, roughly located at each corner, that seat onto metal studs that are in the intake. Grasp both sides of the cover with your hands about the middle of each side, then pull firmly but slowly straight up with a bit of a wiggling motion. Keep a sharp eye as sometimes the grommets can pop out of their holes and fall somewhere difficult to get at. Once you have the cover off it's a good idea to put any grommets stuck on a stud or popped off back in their respective holes, then set it aside.

Stand in front of your VX again and look at the top right side of the engine, just above the coils nearest you. You should see a hose with a finger-clamp retaining it on a plastic fitting the goes into a rubber grommeted hole in the head. Actually, it's best to already have the replacement PCV valve on hand, so you'll know exactly what you're looking for. While holding the PCV valve firmly with one hand, use the other to pinch the tabs of the finger-clamp together and work it a couple inches back up the hose. While still holding the PCV work the hose off the valve fitting. Once loose, then wiggle the PCV out of the grommet paying attention as the grommet can sometimes fall into the head if worn. If it's really loose and deteriorated just take it to your local auto parts shop and get a replacement, they're cheap and generic.

Reverse the above procedure to install the new valve. It's that easy!

[Joe_Black]

Yep, standard stuff especially since we share the same engine across the Isuzu light-truck line. I order mine online from AutoZone.com when I get filters and usually get four of each at a time, then again we've got three Isuzus right now and I included routine maintenance with the '01 Trooper we just sold to a friend.

In any case, if you go to the store you can usually look up the appropriate brand part number in the book there. I usually get the Deutch which I believe is PCV193, but double check that.

[nfpgasmask]

Cool, thanks man!!

Bart

Yep, standard stuff especially since we share the same engine across the Isuzu light-truck line. I order mine online from AutoZone.com when I get filters and usually get four of each at a time, then again we've got three Isuzus right now and I included routine maintenance with the '01 Trooper we just sold to a friend.

In any case, if you go to the store you can usually look up the appropriate brand part number in the book there. I usually get the Deutch which I believe is PCV193, but double check that.

[mjd709]

Hey Joe,

My engine was replaced in 2003 with what I was told is an updated version of our engine. As such, my PCV is made of metal and is integrated into the housing. Do you know if I should be concerned about changing the PCV? In my case, that would involve replacing the housing. Do you know if 2002 and beyond 6EV1's were cured of our PCV/oil problem?

[Joe_Black]

All that I've been able to find on the "improved" engine is that the baffle inside the head was changed slightly and the PCV valve was switched to a screw-in type as most of the issue revolved around the sealing of the valve.

As far as changing the PCV, you should check and change it regularly on any engine equipped with one. That's just a common maintenance item, and one that's all too often overlooked.

I've been working a lot lately on my Mercedes biodiesel project car and you should see how the crankcase is ventilated in that thing. Simple baffle in the valve cover, internally baffled rubber breather hose from the valve cover fitting to the air cleaner, which has an internal cyclonic separator pot that drains separated oil back into the oil pan and a venturi tube to feed vapor into the turbo. Just got it all back together last night after completely disassembling, cleaning and servicing it. There's an o-ring on a check-valve that the oil return tube fits over on the top of the oil pan that was a minor pain to deal with, but hopefully it'll be nice and tight and not need any more attention for some time. PCV valves are much, MUCH simpler!