Well I finally managed to tear a CV boot . The drivers side outter is history. I'll let you guys know how it goes. May be tackling it tomorrow with the help of my neighbor.
Well I finally managed to tear a CV boot . The drivers side outter is history. I'll let you guys know how it goes. May be tackling it tomorrow with the help of my neighbor.
Billy Oliver
15xIronman
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Hey Billy,
Yep, I have to replace my drivers' side CV boot also. I knew I shouldn't follow you on the trails. LOL
Are you going to just replace the boot or really get into it and replace the whole thing? I think I'm going to have a mechanic do it for me. I've checked three places. All three say I should have the whole thing replaced. That cost anywhere from $510 to $575. One guy told me he could just replace the boot for under $150, but there is no warrenty.
Peace.
Tom
"Through Great Sacrifice..... Great Rewards Will Be Achieved"
If your CVs are in good shape you only need replace the boots ($17 at Checker Auto). I think the are seeing $$$$$$$! I am just doing boots unless I find the CVs are bad...they look and sound okay so far.
Just got back from Checkers. The boots they sell are similar to the Mechatechs. They are silicone type that stretch over the CVs so you don't have to dissasemble the Cvs.
They are made by Dorman and the part# for the outer is 614-001. The kit comes with the boot, grease and clamps.
Does anyone know if Mobil1 syynthetic grease is okay for CVs?
Hey Tri, Tom and others....How did it go?
My driver's outer CV boot is shredded and I am hoping to hear that the $17 Checker kit worked.
Any updates?
Bim
I agree. I've replaced one of my CV boots twice for < $20 and the joint itself was in pristine condition. This time around I'm replacing all four with Mecatech boots and installing diff drop brackets.Originally Posted by Triathlete
This job is very messy, but not something an adventurous beginner couldn't do by themselves.
Calmini Cone Air Filter, PowerVault PV2 Muffler, OME Trooper Springs, Rancho RS9000X Shocks, 285/75R16 Nitto Grappler AT's, Pioneer DEH P8000R In-Dash CD, Amps and Drivers Built by Orion, Wires and Fuse Blocks by KnuKonceptz, Vibration Damping by BQuiet, Alarm System featuring Auto Start and Remote Windows, Yakima LoadWarrior w/Full Size Spare, Debadged/Custom Titanium Grill Logo, Tint (5% Rear / 20% Front), Steel Braided Brake Lines, G2 Painted Calipers
They're still holding up!
kpaske/others:
I have the boot kit from Dorman. Can you give this "adventurous beginner" any tips and advice? Or should I just jump in and scare the h*ll out of the trick-or-treaters with my swearing?
Bim
There are actually a couple of really good HOW TO's posted on this board and others that show how to get to the CV joints without disassembling your entire axle. You basically need to put one corner on a jackstand while you use your jack to hold the weight of the A-Arm, and you can remove the inner boot and manipulate the joint out of its cup for repacking with grease. From this point you can also access the outer boot if it requires repair or maintenance.
Here's a beginner's tip for easy cleanup: When you repack your CV joint, just stick it in a plastic baggie and squirt a ton of grease in with it. The plastic will allow you to push the grease around and get it all packed in without making a huge mess.
If you have any other specific questions, ask away!