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Thread: broken head bolt/anybody have a spare block?

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  1. #1
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    If I had access to the stuff to do the bushing, I certainly would. Instead, I'm going to start with a smaller extractor and work my way up so I can make minor corrections as I go. I thought about buying one of those drill press attachments for my drill ... neat tool.

    Just bought a set of cobalt drill bits at Sears and borrowed my father-in-law's square extractor set. None of the people at Sears had ever heard of a counter-clockwise drill bit, not even the guy who claimed to be a machinist.

    Is St. Charles Isuzu still gonna be the best source for head bolts? Can't wait to hear what they cost ...

    That long block on Ebay for $2700 looks more tempting all the time.

  2. #2
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    I'm sure that ARP makes a semi-generic head bolt that works. Get the specifics off of a good one (or find the specs in your manual) and call them up.

  3. #3
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    If stock headbolts are Torque-To-Yeild they are not reusable.

    Don't start with too small an extractor, you don't want to break it off. It can't be all that tight, its not bottomed in the hole, and its an aluminum block.

    John C.

  4. #4
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    Yes, headbolts must be replaced and not reused. I have an extra block but it has spun the first and second bearings so not sure what it would take to rework that part.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tone
    Yes, headbolts must be replaced and not reused. I have an extra block but it has spun the first and second bearings so not sure what it would take to rework that part.
    Ahh that would explain why one broke off. I'm certain they weren't replaced. They didn't look like torque-to-yield bolts to me, but they did seem a bit on the small side.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tone
    Yes, headbolts must be replaced and not reused.
    Is this an isuzu thing? We reuse headbolts all the time, stock and ARP. Even the ones on the 1300 hp motors. Shawn
    1COOLVX

  7. #7
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    Most new cars use TTY headbolts, and typical tightening instructions are to torque to a specific amount, then go an additional 90°.

    John C.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tobert
    None of the people at Sears had ever heard of a counter-clockwise drill bit, not even the guy who claimed to be a machinist.
    Tolbert, Its actually considered a extractor. Finding one that doesnt get to fat will be the problem since you said its down in there a lil ways.
    "You can live your life in a thousand ways,
    but it all comes down to that single day,
    when you realize what you regret,
    but you cant relaim and you cant forget."
    ----Trans Siberian Orchestra

  9. #9
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    Victory!

    I probably wouldn't even have attempted this without the advice of this group

    Thanks everybody ... I think I can save this engine.

    Tools:
    Craftsman square screw extractors.
    Craftsman cobalt drill bits
    16oz. ball peen hammer
    Skil 1/2" hand drill - lower speeds w/ medium pressure

    I had to put the biggest bit I could find in the hole to create a center point for the real hole. The bit kept walking off to the edges because of the way the bolt broke off, leaving a hump in the middle.


  10. #10
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    Awesome, glad it all worked out.

  11. #11
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    http://headbolts.com/isuzu.html

    Anybody ever used these guys before?

    Their site is crap, but their price is far better than anything else out there. My local Isuzu dealer wants $6.72 EACH, ARP estimates between $20-$30 EACH, and St. Charles Isuzu has been a busy signal all day, but with their 15% discount I'm still looking at $102.15 plus shipping in which case I might as well get them locally.

    The dealer said the bolts are 11x155mm - does anybody have a quick way to check? I'll probably re-check mine this evening but I'll probably order from headbolts.com or Merlin.

    Are the 6VE1 bolts really torque-to-yield? Most of TTY bolts I've seen have a thin part of the bolt, where these are just straight bolts.

  12. #12
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    Looks to me as if they are an ARP dealer, so that is probably what they are selling. They make real good fasteners.
    Billy Oliver
    15xIronman
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  13. #13
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    Ordered from St. Charles. I called their non-800 number from the website and got through. $91.36 for 16 head bolts. I transferred to their service department who confirmed that they ARE torque-to-yield. I wonder if I can find an aluminum GM 3800 block ... parts are soo much cheaper, I already have one in cast iron from a Camaro, and parts are way cheaper.

    Wiring is the easy part for me to mod ... exhaust & accessories are more of a pain.

    I hope this is the last major snag in this engine.

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