EGR valve question

[Hotsauce]

The OEM block is part of the manifold, its cast in.

John C.

[Ldub]

I was trying to say, "it looks like what came w/ my s/c kit". OE, as pertaining to what came with the kit.

[Ruflyf]

Ldub, is that stubby that works good for you, straight or offset?

[Ldub]

Ldub, is that stubby that works good for you, straight or offset?

Straight.
Though, It's a ways away from what I'd call working "good".
You're able to get a "bight" on the nut & turn until it makes contact, then barely, (with a little finesse & a few curse words) get it on for another go.
The " fun factor" increases with every degree of engine temp.
Another thought...I haven't tried this, so at your own risk...but, how about a dab of hi-temp, sensor safe silicone instead of loc-tite ?
Though past experience tells me it may make future dis-assembly more difficult.
Good Luck.

[mbeach]

Sorry, I don't know what to tell you.

I didn't realize that you had a different EGR mounting block.

It could be a dissimilar metals issue, the steel heats up and contracts too much, making it loose, I dunno.

The only real fix would be to remove everything, drill the nut and safety wire it in place when it's tight. PITA.

[Y33TREKker]

It may sound odd, but I applied anti-sieze to the threads the nut screws onto the last time it came loose on my EGR assembly, and it hasn't come loose since. Although one of it's main uses is to keep the threads of nuts and bolts from, well....siezing together obviously, it's also good for lubricating threads so that more accurate torque values can be achieved. (As opposed to getting to those places in the threads that want to bind up a bit, making a person think that the nut is now tight on the bolt). The lubrication on the threads makes it easier to tighten, so it's easier to get it tighter.

[Ldub]

Another solution may be to drill & tap the egr block for a set screw or two...
another pita solution.