Window woes...

[ojmagg]

I hate these windows...I hate these windows...I hate these windows...

My passenger side window jammed, breaking off the plactic tabs that attach the mechanics to the bottom of the window. Not only did the tabs come off the window, but they have broke in 1/2 as well. Does anyone have a fix for this? I tried using epoxy, but the tabs keep breaking. Looks like the adhesive that was on the tabs before was some sort of gasket material...Anyone know what type of adhesive would work best for this application?

[creeg]

Im in exactly the same position as you. My tabs were destroyed.

There is some expoxy that is SUPPOSED to work, Here is what is needed

3M Automix, Channel Bonding & Sidelite Adhesive. Part# 08641
3M Automix Applicator Gun. Part# 08191
3M Mixing Nozzles Clear. Part# 08197

I havent tried it as my tabs, like yours, are in pieces. I think you would need new tabs in order to fix it; cracked or broken tabs will probably not work so well.

So what I have done is used JB 4-minute Weld epoxy as a short-term fix. My window is in the locked and upright position, and will not be opened until I get a new window. The JB Weld, through my experimentation, is not a permanent fix. This is the second time I have done this.

I would be happy to just buy new tabs and try my luck with the 3M adhesive, but no one just sells the tabs, and I cant think of any way to fabricate somethign similar.

Ive shopped around, and I have found used windows for $220.00 (that includes shipping and tax), or new ones at my local dealership (with a 7-day shipping time) for $245.00.

Im saving up for the new window, and hopefully along with the other fixes posted on this site, I wont have any problems with the new window.

Yeah, it really really sucks.

[ojmagg]

I thought about cutting the channel off the plastic mounts, then attaching a metal channel with glue and small screws...but that would prob break too...

I'm looking at the part manual right now...list on the Isuzu windows is 156.17...600 on the NAGS...

[ojmagg]

I just spoke to Merlin at St Charles Isuzu 1-800-727-8066...new window $179 to my door.

[creeg]

$179!?!

Im in California, they told me $245.00. How come you get such a better price?

Sheesh!

[creeg]

I just called the dealer back, and they quoted me $226 instead of $245 this time. WTF.

I guess if I keep calling back, it will go down.

[kpaske]

St. Charles Isuzu has always been able to get my OEM parts, they ship for free, and the price is 10 or 15% below list price. Other dealerships vary in the price they'll quote you.

Also, I'd be surprised if they couldn't sell you just the tabs, or maybe a kit of some sort. Make sure you talk to Merlin if you don't like the answer you get elsewhere (even from another parts counter tech at St. Charles). In my experience he has always come through even when others told me a part was unavailable.

[HotFlyer]

I had the same problem. Contacted M & M Auto Parts (Used) in Bridgeport, PA(1-800-276-0404). They found a used window in excelent condition for my VX, $125.00. Nice people, easy to talk to.

Howard (0761)

[Tobert]

I was planning on just making some out of metal, but my primary problem is that the window channel has been ripped or cut off, so there's nothing to guide the window. Putting metal tabs on would just make the window shatter.

There isn't really much to those plastic pieces ... they could probably be made out of a good piece 1/2" PVC stock with a dremel if you take your time. I was thinking of trying that, too. They don't need to be exact - just close enough to fill in the rest with adhesive. Really they don't need to be as fancy as they are. You really just need a slot in a piece of 1/2" plastic with a hole drilled for the bolt. In fact, now that I think about it, the replacements could be much bigger so they can handle more stress ... hmm.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=7539628733

I might give that a try. Heck, I could probably cut the slot nicely with the tablesaw (very carefully, of course).

[Ldub]

Tobert,

Just had an idea while reading your post.
For safetys sake, one of those thick (approx 1/2") white plastic kitchen cutting boards might be the ticket.
That way you can rip your groove in the edge with precious pinkies well away from the blade, then cut to desired width (height?)
I'm not sure about how well epoxy or other adhesives will stick to that stuff though.
I dunno, just thinkin' out loud.

[Tobert]

For safetys sake, one of those thick (approx 1/2") white plastic kitchen cutting boards might be the ticket.

Definitely a good idea. I looked at those and it turns out most of them (on ebay) are actually made out of the same stuff I was looking at. You're absolutely right about the safety precautions. Table saws are one of the most unforgiving tools you can own when it comes to tearing off fingers. I'm scared to death of mine and that's why I can still count to ten.

I just ordered some of that plastic. I'll report back here after application and will sell a couple sets cheaply if it works.

[creeg]

So the tabs for my passenger window broke off, and instead of throwing out a perfectly good piece of glass, I read the threads and I tried the quick-and-dirty fix, using JB Weld to fix my windows.



That didnt work that well. NOT recommended, dont waste your time.

Then, I read in this forum about the fact that 3M has the right kind of glue available, but Isuzu doesnt sell replacement tabs: they only sell new pieces of glass with the tabs pre-glued on. The cheapest I could find new glass is from Merlin: he quoted me $170 (which includes shipping to California). The local dealership wanted about $250. Not bad, but Im cheap. Then, Merlin suggested that I go to the General Motors parts department and see if they have a similar tab.

After some talking and research with the GM Parts guys, they found a part that looked right: GM Part number 22689012





These cost $9.64 each, I bought 2. Total cost of tabs: $20.88 (make sure you call ahead to see if they have them, I bought the last 2 that they had at my supplier). The screws that held the old tabs also fit this piece, so it seemed promising.

Then, I went on the 3m site and found a local supplier to get the 3M parts.
3M Automix, Channel Bonding & Sidelite Adhesive. Part# 08641: $13.75
3M Automix Applicator Gun. Part# 08191: $63.21
3M Mixing Nozzles Clear. Part# 08197: $18.54







They misquoted me when I called, so I got the gun for $40 instead of $60, so my total cost of 3M parts was $87.36

On to installation.

-I removed the old tab
-Scraped off all the old glue/JB Weld
-Put the glass back in the door and marked the location of the tabs with a pen on the glass
-Loaded the gun
-filled the tab with glue, and stuck it on the glass.
-waited about 4 minutes, and it was dry (fast curing time)
-put the glass back in, and bolted it in place.





It works fine now, and has been for the past 2 days. We'll see how long it lasts, Ill post here if it breaks off again.

Total cost for repair: $108.24

some things I noticed:

-The new tab causes the window to not completely recess into the window.
About 1/4 inch of the window sticks out. Not a big deal to me, but worth noting.

-The 3m nozzles are one-time use, but the tube of adhesive cliams that if you close it back up, you can use it again later. (you get about 10 nozzles in a pack)

Reflections:

I would buy the tabs, take them to your local glass shop, see if they can just glue them on for me, and re-install it myself. $60 for the mixing gun and $18 for the nozzles is pretty steep if you ask me.

Well, there it is. hope that helps. Good luck!

[Kenny]

Just a thought...

When putting on new tabs, would it be a good time to maybe place the foreward tab a bit lower to give the window that much needed tilt?? Is there enough meat on this clip to allow this? or a homemade clip...

I have not yet had to resort to the actual "window-fix" yet, I do have to keep the front rubber slide lubed with some silicone spray every now and then - otherwise I would have to pull the window back by hand as it goes up.

[Bulldoggie]

Great find. I find it hard to buy a new window just to get a plastic tab.

My tab was broken and I glued it back together with an epoxy that works with urethane. it is still holding after 100's of window openings.
If I had known about these GM tabs, I would have replaced both and repositioned them to line up with the lift arm holes

[kpaske]

The new tab causes the window to not completely recess into the window. About 1/4 inch of the window sticks out. Not a big deal to me, but worth noting.

Huh? Can you take a picture or explain what you mean a little better?

Edit: I think what you mean is that when the window is rolled down completely, it still sticks up about 1/4" out of the door. Right?

The 3m nozzles are one-time use, but the tube of adhesive cliams that if you close it back up, you can use it again later. (you get about 10 nozzles in a pack)

Surely there has to be another suitable adhesive or method of application. $78 is a bit stiff for glue!

When putting on new tabs, would it be a good time to maybe place the foreward tab a bit lower to give the window that much needed tilt?? Is there enough meat on this clip to allow this? or a homemade clip...

This is what I'm wondering. From what other owners have said in other threads, it seems the source of the problem is where these tabs are positioned on the glass. A bit of a correction when installing the replacement tabs might solve the binding issue once and for all.