Grease Monkey Report...

[Ldub]

Changing your own oil is the ONLY way to know it's done right. That being said, there is also a feeling of satisfaction from any job done well.
If there is ANY way possible, no one but me will ever turn a wrench on my baby...I know not everyone likes to get dirty, & thats ok...but at least check your oil at EVERY fill up. All right...rant over.
I'm going out & under to change my oil now.

[kpaske]

I wasn't much of a mechanic before I purchased my VX about 7 years ago, but thanks to a willingness to experiment and this forum, I can say that nearly all of the work that has ever been done on my VX was (ultimately) done correctly and completely by myself. My timing belt turned out to be the most difficult job I've done, but only because there was incorrect information in the shop manual. Others fortunately have the benefit of learning from my mistakes, as I documented everything here. Nearly every problem you will ever run into can be solved here with some patience and perseverence. So if you are considering learning to work on your VX, I can say that my experience with this forum has made all the difference in the world.

Learning to do basic maintenance like changing your oil requires very minimal tools and will save you some money, but more importantly it will save you from a great deal of frustration dealing with the Jiffy Lube monkies. You'll know that your vehicle is being serviced properly and you'll gain the confidence to do increasingly complex mechanical work. In my opinion, the VX is actually fairly easy to work on, and sometimes it's even fun!

I recently put a down payment on a new vehicle (an 06 VW Jetta TDI) and I fully intend to do all my own work on that vehicle now also. I've found an enthusiast's forum similar to this one where I'm sure I will find solutions to any common problem I may run into (and probably the uncommon ones too).

The diesel community seems to be fond of oil extractors, which allow you to pump the oil out of the motor (usually through the dipstick hole or oil fill hole). Many claim that they get a lot more oil out that way. The process is very simple. One company that sells these is Pela. I think the Pela 6000 is about $60.

The only issue I have with the Fumoto valve is that since it protrudes from the oil pan a lot more than the OEM drain plug, there is more potential for it to be damaged. If you regularly take your VX offroad I personally would NOT recommend this valve, as knocking a hole in your oil pan leaving all your oil on a boulder somewhere would not be a pretty sight. On the other hand, if you never leave the hardball these things are great and the Fumoto appears to be much better made than any that I've seen at the auto parts stores.

[mbeach]

... if you never leave the hardball ...

LOL, you said hardball...

I love the idea of the tool-less oil change, but I've shunned the Fumoto valve for the same reason. Face it, you're going to need a wrench to remove the oil filter -might as well toss a 17mm (or is it 19mm) wrench in the kit as well.

Way back when I started changing my own fluids, I would stick my head under the car/truck/bike 3 or 4 times a day for 2 weeks -just in case I caused a leak. After a while it goes away, and you'll learn to develop confidence in your own work. I wish that I could say that about my home plumbing -I look under the sink every night before bed...

[Joe_Black]

Just a minor comment about the Fumoto: Since our oilpan drain is on the corner the installed Fumoto sticks out at a 45 degree angle about 1 inch further than the stock drain plug. It's only about 3/8" lower than the bottom of the pan, so if you hit something nasty enough to knock the valve out you'd be holing your pan anyway. In other words this is a moot point.

Also, for those worried about accidental or malicious opening of the valve there are a couple simple solutions. The industrial Fumoto advertises using a common spring clamp to place on top of the valve which locks it in the closed position. This works on the vehicular Fumoto as well, and is removed for service with common hand pliers. For the more paranoid the valve can be more securely kept close with the simple application of safety wire. Safetly wire pliers and wire can be had from most hardware outlets and even Harbor Freight has a decent set for less than $20 including a spool of wire. Simply snip off when ready to drain and spin on some new when done.

Now Kyle I hope you don't think I've picking on you but I wouldn't recommend using an oil extractor. They're more ideally intended for withdrawing fluids that aren't easily accessed of serviced in a normal fashion, such as in a marine or industrial environment. Of course there's a contingent of folk who just don't like getting dirty or crawling under machinery who realized they can use this equipment to meet their "needs". When you gravity-drain fluid though a great thing happens: Particulates come out with the flow. When your suctioning it out these particulates usually stay where they are in the bottom of the pan and various galleries. Plus it's almost impossible to get the flexible pickup hose, usually just cheap vinyl or Tygon, fully on the bottom of the pan leaving a good deal of contaminant-laden oil still in the engine. Gravity flow is nice, simple, thorough and best of all it's free.

Oh, if you need a wrench to get your oil filter off that's a built-in clue that you're putting it on too tight.

[nfpgasmask]

OK everyone, thanks for the help. I will be doing my next oil change. Many of you hit on some areas that have kept me from doing any auto work myself. The main one:

CONFIDENCE

I am a computer tech and I have absolutely no fear of machines, and I can easily dive into a PC and fix any issues with not a lick of concern. I hope to someday be at least 50% this way with my VX. I actually do enjoy getting dirty, so long as I do it right. I don't ever want to eff something up with my VX, and on the same token, I don't want some looser mech to eff it up either. Anyway, I can certainly relate. Taking your computer to Best Buy to get it fixed is a sure way to have your wallet raped.

Thus far, I have just been trying to do the right thing, the best I can. I changed my PCV Valve an hour ago and it was a snap! This is something I would not have done without this forum, and it only cost me $4.34. Also, I am not a total fool. I take everything the grease monkeys tell me with a grain of salt. I was however (and still am) concerned about the burning oil problem.

So, If anyone wants to make a photo tutorial of their next oil change, I would be one person you would make very happy and more confident! And, I would much rather spend $100 on tools to do the job right and learn something in the process.

This forum has been a tremendous help, and I have only been a member (and owner) for about 2 months. Thanks again everyone.

Bart

[WyldWeasel]

The only reason I take my vehicles to an oil change place or mechanic to get the oil changed is that I really don't want the hassle of having to dispose of the old oil and filter in an ecologically sound manner. So it's worth it to me not to have to do the oil change, tho I bring them the oil, the filter, the PCV valve and watch them while they do all the work.

[Joe_Black]

The only reason I take my vehicles to an oil change place or mechanic to get the oil changed is that I really don't want the hassle of having to dispose of the old oil and filter in an ecologically sound manner. So it's worth it to me not to have to do the oil change, tho I bring them the oil, the filter, the PCV valve and watch them while they do all the work.

You definitely need to grab a $5 oil basin from Wal-Mart. It's got a little spot to put the old oil filter so it can drain overnight, then the next day you pour the old oil out of the basin spout right back into its original container then drop it off at your local auto parts place. Put the caps back on the basin and store out of the way until the next change. You're clean, the garage is clean and you've got your green on too!

[Ldub]

Another rationale (sp?) for doing your own maintence...after the tools you buy have paid for themselves, you can start applying the money you've $aved towards more mods for your VX It doesn't take long to save literally thousands of dollars doing yourself what dealers/jiffy monkeys will happily charge you way more for.
Just about everything you will need to do is doable with a floor jack, some jack stands & the basic hand tools/socket set etc....oh, & a grease gun too.
As you can plainly see, I can rationalize the expense of almost anything for my baby.

[UtahVXer]

A couple of years ago in Salt Lake City there was a case where a local JiffyLube actually sabotaged a guy's car because he declined a service upgrade.
They put powdered aluminum radiator sealer in his oil which destroyed his engine. This is not a joke. This was reported in the local news.

[Tobert]

Since nobody answered about the 15w50 in your engine, I'd say it's probably not going to hurt anything but your gas mileage. It's summer and it doesn't appear that the 6VE1 has super tight clearances on oil ports, so you'll just be running extra high oil pressure when the oil is cold.

For the oil consumption, check out the following thread and draw your own conclusions. Mine doesn't even burn, but I'm switching anyways due to prior experience with 15w40 oil in other engines.

http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/viewtopic.php?t=7033

The Mobil-1 5w30 Truck & SUV oil seems to be popular here, and can be purchased cheaply at Wally World if you prefer to stay within manufacturer's specs.

[Tobert]

A couple of years ago in Salt Lake City there was a case where a local JiffyLube actually sabotaged a guy's car because he declined a service upgrade.
They put powdered aluminum radiator sealer in his oil which destroyed his engine. This is not a joke. This was reported in the local news.

A few years back, Valvoline Lube sprayed lubricant into my alternator bearings before I could stop them ... the front bearing failed within 100 miles and I had to walk 2 miles to an auto parts store to get a new one. Good thing I had a cell phone and tools with me - I was 50 miles from home! That was that last quickie lube I paid for.

Never, ever let them spray lube anywhere on your car. They'll put it places where it'll dilute or flush out grease and cause you all manner of headaches.

[climbcovey]

I have run castrol syntec 10w30 since the first oil change on my vx, year round. 93000 miles later I still don't burn any oil, I too have larger tires. Changeing the oil in the VX is a snap. 15 min max. with minimal tool investment (probably 20 bucks). I would advise looking a little deeper for for oil consumption problem though. If all is proper there should be no descernable drop in your oil level if you are changing it frquently. If you are still unsure about how to change your oil and filter get a maintanence manual. almost any similar vehicle will give you step by step instruction. The procedure is the same on any typical truck/suv. the only difference is the location of the oil pan, filter dipstick and layout. step one: drain oil by removeing the bolt in the bottom of the oil pan. allow oil to drain until flow stops. step two: replace bolt. step three: move drain pan under oil filterand unscrew oil filter. again allow to drain. step four: replace filter with new one (hand tight only). step five: fill with oil via the crankcase. cap is locater on front top of the left valve cover but I'm sure you already knew that. I use five quarts. step six: replace oil cap and pat yourself on the back. you have now taken your first step to becomeing a shadetree mechanic, and you now know more about your vehicle than the guys at jiffy lube!!!!