CV Boot Replacement...or how to save $1600!!!!

[Triathlete]

Today I replaced my torn CV boot at home. Isuzu will tell you the CV's are NOT a servicable part and that the entire shaft needs to be replaced at a cost of $850 per side. Since I had everything apart I changed both the inner and outer boot. Parts cost me $33 for both the inner and outer boot (x2 if doing both sides) and another $2.99 for a can of break cleaned. $36 vs. $850!
All you need is a willingness to get dirty and greasy and about 2 hours of your time.
So here is the proceedure...(I must give mad props to James (Spazz) and Dan Houlster who's 4x4Wire tech article were of much help)
Here is the culprit...
The torn boot

Very few tools are needed to do the job
1 jack, jack stands, a deep 17mm socket, ratchet (a long one helps for leverage needed), snap ring pliers, a screw driver, rags and a can of brake cleaner. A band tool is helpful also...I didn't use one and it was a pain but I got it done.

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[Triathlete]

Jack up the front of the VX and place it on jack stands.
Remove wheel/tire.

Place jack under lower control arm and lift to relieve pressure on the lower ball joint.

Remove the 4 17mm bolts on the bottom of the lower control arm that hold the ball joint bracket.

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[Triathlete]

(yes, that is duct tape as a VERY temperary fix till I got a chance to do the boot change! )
Next reposition the ball joint bracket to the top of the lower control arm.

Remove the bands from the INNER CV BOOT.
Move boot off of CV Joint.

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[Triathlete]

Clean as much grease out as you can. Rags and brake cleaner work great.
Next locate the wire ring just inside the inner lip and slide a screw driver under it. Pop the ring out. Thiis is the retainer ring that holds your CV joint and axle shaft in!

This is the ring once remoced.

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[Triathlete]

Next you pull the CV joint out by pulling the brake assembly outward.
This is the result.

Be prepared for the balls to fall out.
This is what the CV joint will look like...yeah its greasy!

Use the brake cleaner and rags to clean it up.
Use a screw driver to remove the 6 balls.

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[Triathlete]

There is a snap ring on the end of the shaft.

Remove the ring with snap ring pliers.
The snap ring once removed.

Next remove the the inner part of the CV joint from the splined shaft.
I needed to use a small gear puller on mine since it was pretty tight.
Once removed notice the recessed inner part on one end. That side goes on first when reinstalling it or it will not fit on all the way.
You can see it here...

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[WyrreJ]

You might want to host the pictures here in case AOL ever decides to "realign their internet business" and stop providing free hosting.

[mbeach]

Another fine write up Mr. Oliver!

Thanks from everyone here, we appreciate how much time and consideration it takes to step away from the tools and take a few pictures. This easily doubles the time of the job. Thanks again,

[Joe_Black]

Excellent write up and photos! This is what this community is all about. THANK YOU!

PS: If you'd like to permanently host your how-to somewhere, I'd be more than happy to copy it to my VX site.

[Triathlete]

Joe Black...Feel free to throw it up on your site.

[SPAZZ]

but, you need to throw in there that the C clip on the inner green axle cup needs to be installed offset from the bearing grovves upon installation or the whole bearing, cage, castle, and c clip assembly will slide right out of the green cup.

Other than that looks great. Glad you finally got it.

[tomdietrying]

Great job Billy! I just had mine done, and it cost me $350 big ones.

Once again.....you the MAN!

Peace.
Tom

[Jonnie]

Crap. That was easy. Why wasn't that way the first 3 times I tried. So easy anyone with the tool list can do it.

The only problem is the outer boot I got at Pep Boys was loose on the cup- too loose. My neighbor wisked me up the street to Adavanced to get another. Don't forget the big C-clip, i almost did.

Thanks for the help Spazz, the Marines always get the job done!

Jon

[TEN36VX]

Did my CV Boot replacement this weekend using this post as a great tool.

I figured since one was bad the others couldn't be close behind so I replaced all of them using the Mecatech boots, which came so highly recommended by E-ZooZoo One. I combined their instructions and Triathlete's for the install.

Since the Mecatech's are so elastic I only had to disasemble as far as Post #5 (and my ball bearings didn't fall out...). The outer boot slid over the bearings using the existing grease as lube (an assistant to helps with this one). Then I just used mecatech's cone tool they provide to get the inner boot on. Easy as pie.

First side took 3 hours; the R&D phase is always the longest. But after having done it once, the other side took only an hour. So, if you have done boot replacements before, you could replace all 4 boots in 2 hours!

Thanks for the How-To, Triathlete.

[pbkid]

wow billy thanks for the great writeup, thats gonna help the rest of us out a ton!