Tranny Filter

[nfpgasmask]

Hey everyone, I'm going to be doing a fluid change on my VX soon, probably this weekend. I'm bring the VX to a friends shop and we are going to do it there.

I am going to go with Mobile 1 ATF. Is this the only 'fluid' product I need? I will probably be using Joe Black's awesome instructions for this also.

As for the tranny filter, can someone provide a part number so I know what I need to buy? I want to try to find this as soon as possible so I can have it for this weekend.

Any other links or pointers on changing the ATF in the transfer case and the tranny is appreciated. Pretend like I know nothing (cause I don't).

Thanks - Bart

[Ldub]

As long as you're at it, might wanna change the frt. & r. diffs. to synth. too.
Don't forget some LSD additive for the rear.

[Joe_Black]

I haven't detailed a filter change on my instructions as it's just a fluid change, but hope to do a filter tutorial soon. If you look in my gallery there should be pics of the TOD/transfer case along with the diffs indicating drain and fill points. All three are pretty simple though, simply drain from the bottom and then fill to the fill opening. I've used Mobil-1 gear lube with excellent results, but you still need LSD additive for the rear. ATF goes in the TOD/transfer case.

Remember to disconnect your negative battery cable before you get started! Ya don't wanna get squished.

EDIT: Here's the gallery album with the drain and fill pics - http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/sh...y.php?cat=3058

[Andrey]

Here we go:
Tranny filter - part number 8-96015-062-0 ($84.89) (price was accurate as of several years ago when I've purchased)

[nfpgasmask]

Cool, I'll try to find that filter. Is that part number for a specific brand or is this just a general part number?

Thanks - Bart

[Andrey]

Cool, I'll try to find that filter. Is that part number for a specific brand or is this just a general part number?

Thanks - Bart

This is ISUZU OEM part, original. Not sure if anybody did aftermarket. If they did it will be cheaper but I guess the quality might be the same

Good luck !

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

Here we go:
Tranny filter - part number 8-96015-062-0 ($84.89) (price was accurate as of several years ago when I've purchased)

Just placed my order for an OEM Transmission filter (listed as strainer asm) from ISUZU dealer at a cost of $82.19; however, they said the gasket was NOT included and I had to order that too at a cost of $17.81.

Transmission "strainer asm" part number 8-96015-062-0 ($82.19)
Gasket part number 8-96014-234-0 ($17.81)

[Tone]

Pan gasket is a bear to change. I would strongly recommend the new inline filter that filters to 10 micron instead of the 60 micron of the stock filter.

[Joe_Black]

An inline filter on the 4L30E is very ill-advised as the stock filter is on the suction side of the transmission pump whereas an inline filter has to be mounted on either cooler line, causing line pressure and potential blockage from the discharge side of the valve body.

Using an inline filter without the proper plumbing and additional pumps is a guaranteed opportunity to kill your transmission.

[nfpgasmask]

Joe, well, since they have the filter I need sitting at AutoZone, I will go with this one. Can you tell me if there is anything I need to remember/take note of when I change it?

Looks like you and Tone will have to duke this one out!

Bart

An inline filter on the 4L30E is very ill-advised as the stock filter is on the suction side of the transmission pump whereas an inline filter has to be mounted on either cooler line, causing line pressure and potential blockage from the discharge side of the valve body.

Using an inline filter without the proper plumbing and additional pumps is a guaranteed opportunity to kill your transmission.

[Joe_Black]

Nothing to duke out, just difference of opinions. With a motorsports, marine and aviation background my line of thinking follows two doctrines: Keep it simple and Failure is not an option. I base my opinions on real-world facts and keep my yap shut shut until I've seen and touched actual data. I've made bad calls and mistakes, and I'm sure there's more in my future. I'm always willing to learn and see a different point of view, as long as it's backed up and not purely passion or flaming ignorance.

Now, as for changing the transmission filter: There is some clearance issues with a cross member under the pan. If you have the service manual that should give you a good idea as to what's involved, or you can sped some time laying under you VX and attempt to grok the situation. Failing either of those two just post here and I'll post up some pics and the relevant sections from the service manual.

Since you're planning on dropping the pan you may want to get your hands on a torque wrench as it's real easy to strip or break the pan bolts. One or two isn't critical, but it will annoy you to no end.

Oh, see if they have nylon gasket scrapers when you get your filter. One of the best tools to have for cleaning up gasket surfaces as it's virtually impossible to mess up and score or scratch the mating surfaces.

[nfpgasmask]

Also, one more thing, if I am doing a transmission fluid and filter change, and the trans case, how much fluid should I buy? From what I have read on here, looks like 10 quarts should do the job. I told this to my buddy who is going to help me with the fluid change, and he said "no way, my truck (Dodge Ram Sport) only took like 5 quarts!"

So, I'm doing the transmission and the transfer case at the same time, so how much ATF should I buy? I'm going to Wal*mart tommorrow to see if they have the Mobile 1 synth.

Thanks to everyone again.

Bart

[nfpgasmask]

OK, so yesterday, I changed the fluid in the trans, transfer case, and put in a new transmission filter & gasket.

First off, let me say that my fluid was BAD. Totally chocolate colored and burnt smelling. I'm at 29,000 miles and I do not think this service has ever been performed. I drained about 5 quarts or so of fluid.

It really was not as difficult as I thought it was going to be. I did the service with my good friend who is also a part-time mechanic. He was utterly amazed that the VX has no dipstick or fill reservoir under the hood. We used a little hand pump that we got at Pep Boys to pump the new ATF in. I used Mobile 1 ATF. We filled the trans until the fill plug was just spilling out ATF. I think this is the right amount. I hope so anyway. I'm going under again to check for leaks and to check my fluid level again today or tomorrow.

Thanks to the tips from everyone, I felt confident enough to do this work on my own. If anyone has any follow-up tips or precautions, please let me know.

Also, one thing that made it easier: I bought my filter and gasket about a week prior to the service. As soon as I got the filter and gasket, I took out the gasket and put it flat under my floor matting all week. So, when it came time to replace the gasket, I was able to lay in on the pan nice and flat and replaced it with no difficulty. The old gasket came off easily as well. Didn't need to scrape at all.

Shifting seemed smoother from the get go. All in all, the job went smooth.
Even in power mode, shifting felt better, however I think the aggressive shifting is normal for power mode.

I'm rolling out to the dunes this weekend. After I get back, I'm gonna change the diff fluid and soon after I'm gonna change the tranny fluid again since I switched to synthetic.


Thanks - Bart

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

[QUOTE=Joe_Black
Since you're planning on dropping the pan you may want to get your hands on a torque wrench as it's real easy to strip or break the pan bolts. One or two isn't critical, but it will annoy you to no end.[/QUOTE]

Anybody have the correct torque spec for the pan bolts as well as the cross member bolts?

I'm searching away for this but haven't stumbled on it yet!

[ojmagg]

You've got to drop the cross-member, support the tranny, undo 15 10mm bolts on the pan, make sure you don't strip them when you put them back in....

The gasket it's self will need to be scraped off...there's going to be fluid in there...