If it gushes out when hot, that may too much but I always have some coming out when I cap them.
If it gushes out when hot, that may too much but I always have some coming out when I cap them.
'Released fluid', wonder if that was a asia instruction sheet that was translated in India for the English market. I sure we have all had a giggle with some of the instruction sheets with stuff we have had to assemble.
The Note at the bottom of the page about check trans temp with scan tool. Wish the scan gauge that Tone had would do that along with oil temp/press, transfer case temp also.
Bart, be sure to check all your tranny connectors. You may want to disconnect and re-seat each of them to may sure they're clean and properly connected. Also take that opportunity to disconnect your negative battery terminal for about half an hour to reset the ECU as well.
Sounds like perhaps a sensor or parameter isn't being read properly.
Over 20 years of Isuzu enjoyment...
Thanks Joe, I take it the tranny connectors are the cables that are wired up along the crossmember that I had to work around, eh?
I will do the battery disconnect tonight.
Thanks - Bart
Originally Posted by Joe_Black
Question for Joe_Black on the battery disconnect. manager at my local Shucks auto parts store said to reset the ECU, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes then hit the brake pedal 2 times to discharge the capacitor. What do you think?
i would think just disconnecting the battery for 1/2 hour would do the trick, i disconnected for an hour while i was in class to get rid of a check engine light before i got my scan gauge, also did it on a 97 accord and worked the same. 30 min with no battery = no more lights (until the fault happens again of course) so im guessing that it cleared the computer
Any capacitors within the ECU will not power or back-up anything other than the ECU. So stepping on the brake pedal to activate the brake lights will not drain down the ECU at all.
Impresses the chicks needing help at Pep Boys I imagine though.