New CV boots with OEM or new aftermarket axel

[Baldwin]

So the cost is pretty close to change out torn CV boot or installing a new axel. Is it better to keep my original 14 year old OEM axel and just change the boot, or install an "cheap" aftermarket axel for a few bucks more? Also, is are the DIY CV boot repair kits worth it? Just basically tape the tear. Doing the CV boot replace or axel replace just takes too much time it seems and I don't have space to get under my VX for 6 or 7 hrs...let alone even having that much time to spare. Thoughts?

[eternal21]

Keep the OEM axle.

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=25607

[ojmagg]

I just repacked mine...It is a very easy job.

Unbolt the tire.
Take off the 4 bolts holding the bottom ball joint.
Remove boot (I cut both of mine off).
Clean out the CVs.
Remove C-clip.
Pull out CV from the Green Cup.
Remove snap ring.
Grease cups/bearings.
Slide new boots on.

If your joints are in good shape, and your are not down for a little grease and sweat, I'd have a mechanic repack them...

[tom4bren]

Take the MechaTech install instructions to the shop that is replacing the boots. It'll save them mucho time & save you mucho dinero.

I'm guessing the estimate they gave you includes the time to actually drop the axle ... which isn't needed.

[JAMAS]

Do just the boots. The OEM axle seems to be the strongest.

and use NAPA boots. They are very thick and durable.

[tom4bren]

& all 4 boots are the same (even though 2 different part numbers are listed) so if they are out of stock on one, just get enough of the other.

[JAMAS]

& all 4 boots are the same (even though 2 different part numbers are listed) so if they are out of stock on one, just get enough of the other.

From my experience, the fit is the same, but the spacing between the "bellows" or folds or whatever those things are .....are different.

perhaps it has to do with how each one flexes....not sure, but the folds matched the OEM differences.

....but again to Tom's point....they will all fit inside and outside the same.

[JoFotoz]

Yea... BUT!!

Keep the OEM axle.

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=25607

Please note..

Yes.. I posted a warning regarding SurTrack..

BUT...One breakage only...
...and under SEVERE Off Road Stress.


THERE HAVE BEEN NO PROBLEMS REPORTED...
....when fitted for street use .

IMO.. do NOT dismiss them as a good option for road use..
....... if OEM are shot.

Jo

.

[tom4bren]

From my experience, the fit is the same, but the spacing between the "bellows" or folds or whatever those things are .....are different.

perhaps it has to do with how each one flexes....not sure, but the folds matched the OEM differences.

....but again to Tom's point....they will all fit inside and outside the same.

Absolootly ... but ...

"A difference that makes no difference is no difference"

Mr. Spock

[eternal21]

Yea... BUT!!



Please note..

Yes.. I posted a warning regarding SurTrack..

BUT...One breakage only...
...and under SEVERE Off Road Stress.


THERE HAVE BEEN NO PROBLEMS REPORTED...
....when fitted for street use .

IMO.. do NOT dismiss them as a good option for road use..
....... if OEM are shot.

Jo

.

Duly noted, but it would seem that OEM (so far, at least) have the best shot, as long as they're not shot. Gonna have to start my own hoard of OEMs here in a bit

[Triathlete]

Jo, are the surtrac ball and cage assemblies compatible with the oem shafts?

[JoFotoz]

Not sure...

Jo, are the surtrac ball and cage assemblies compatible with the oem shafts?

When I measured the OEM shafts against Surtrack shafts..
...there were small differences.
But I didnt measure snug to the assemblies.

However the balls/races and green cup clearance were all to OEM spec..
... assuming the accuracy of my micrometer!

Me thinks re-building OEM would be easier than removing and pressing
the Surtrack assemblies onto OEM shafts.

Jo

[Baldwin]

Thanks!